Content Fashion Photographer Stretches the Boundaries
Last Updated on Monday, 23 February 2009 15:06 Written by Toby Grace Wednesday, 19 March 2008 21:31
Nico Iliev has come on to the New York scene as one of the hottest new fashion photographers. Hard at work at New York’s late winter Fashion Week, he still found time to talk with Out In Jersey about his unique approach to an art form that demands constant innovation and cutting edge creativity.
How would you describe the aesthetic of your work in a way that distinguishes it from other fashion photographers?
Nico Iliev: I like to think of my work as having to read between the lines. Often there’s a cold and lofty overall quality to it, which I nonetheless find compelling. I often find inspiration in subjects that are visually unique and otherworldly, yet when it comes to shooting, I stick to clean and simple.
For me, shooting portraiture and fashion is capturing an image of a person or figure through my own idea of beauty – it is simple, calm, seductive, quietly intense, subtle, independent, iconic, timeless and a bit tragic. I am drawn to the flawless yet fetishize human flaws in exploration of their beauty, I push normality to idealize the ordinary, I cross-reference constantly while sticking to ‘less is more’, and I always communicate with the model even when very little room is given to express a lot, meanwhile I remain open – this is how I read between the lines. My heroes are Picasso and Helmut Newton. I most admire Steven Meisel, for his chameleon style and heavy-duty signature.
What role does sexuality play in your composition?
NI: Sexuality is a huge part of a person but rather obvious so it can be tricky. I find the lack thereof and androgyny a lot more intriguing.
How do you decide if a work should be in color or black & white?
NI: If the art direction doesn’t pre-determine it, I let the image dictate. Sometimes I see a cross-reference, but usually it’s purely visual.
Generally, which would you say comes first in terms of the creative process: the art director’s instructions or the photographer’s inspiration?
NI: That depends on the project. Photography is quite immediate but art direction can make it or break it.
Are there particular designers whose work is best suited to your own artistic style?
NI: There are a few labels that I’m particularly drawn to, even though amazing pieces can come from anywhere – Alexander McQueen, Yoji Yamamoto, Viktor and Rolf, Comme des Garcons, Balenciaga, Prada, Lanvin, Dior, Hussein Chalayan, Hedi Slimane. Also Victor De Souza, who is a personal friend, has helped me produce some of my best work.
What traits, both physical and mental, are most desirable in a model?
NI: Smart! I love very tall and long girls – beautiful skin and hair is a must for me but types vary. The way a girl moves and the personality is what triggers my inspiration the most.
Your most exciting project?
NI: Shooting Amanda Lepore on several occasions last year has been nothing short of spectacular!
Most important upcoming project?
NI: There’s a lot at stake right now. I better not jinx myself by speaking early. I’ve been working on a personal body of work that I may finally complete in the next couple of months as well. It’s totally obsessive, so in the long run maybe quite important.
Do you make a particular effort to relate, in your work, to the queer community?
NI: Absolutely. Gay men rule fashion and fashion is queer! I don’t necessarily make any particular attempts, it sort of happens naturally.
How did you establish your reputation as a pro ?
NI: I started shooting model books five years ago and sort of never stopped shooting. I let my work speak for itself. I love what I do and treat it with respect. Hopefully, there is a lot more to come.
